Rich, complex, delicious cuisine, Andrea Petrini dixit
Andrea Petrini signs the story of Ciccio and Gabriella, Sultans of love, on the April issue of Cook_inc. Much more than a review, the article resembles a meeting between people who have known each other without dating:
https://cookinc.it/prodotto/cook_inc-28-home-is-where-i-want-to-be/
«If the cuisine of Sultano can be labeled as Baroque – Petrini writes – it is because he moves its lines along the trajectory of a soft avant-garde. Rich, complex, delicious cuisine, due to the abundant concerns over the details. However, underneath the layer of instant opulence, if anything, this cuisine actually tends towards its opposite. We are not talking about the abyssal decorative emptiness of many of his contemporary copyists…»
Speaking of I Banchi, he highlights with another definition that it is: «not a restaurant-bis, an annex, not a bistrot, nor a mere extension of Duomo but an ideal, preparatory, propitiatory embassy. «Here Sultano frames his philosophy on everyday lifestyle among the paintings of Giovanni Robustelli». And he concludes that: «we knew Sicily en ménage with the Moors, the Arabs and the Phoenicians and all those who have passed there. But we were not expecting to discover it in an “Open Doors” dinner with the flavours of the Far East. When Baroque and Arte Povera go hand in hand, we validate and fully approve». Photos: Benedetto Tarantino
Ciccio Sultano
A practical mind
