Ciccio Sultano: “My favorite pasta”
“I’m a traditionalist, with a great love for my own land…I’ve never hidden it. And when I say that my kitchen is an interpretation of our traditions, it’s no slogan or exaggeration. Think about how many times I’ve been asked what my favorite dish is; never once has my response wavered: Rigatoni con il Sugo delle Feste, pasta prepared with sausage, pork, beef, chicken and meatballs in red sauce. A sauce full of history and tradition that our mothers, and grandmothers before them, have passed through generations; it is a dish of celebration and simple enjoyment. On several occasions, I’ve even offered pasta with Sugo delle Feste at my restaurant, for the simple reason remaining true to my heritage: to transmit to our guests the opulence and deliciousness that it represents! It’s a dish that represents Sicilian history and the province of Ragusa. Typically, as I remember, this dish was prepared for big family occasions: Christmas, without a doubt, and any occasion in which family was reunited around the table on Sunday in the wintertime. Pasta and meat together for an explosion of flavors that vividly convey the sentimental, slow, lingering Sunday lunch of the middle of winter, warmed by the atmosphere of the meat braising for hours, filling the air with the comforting scent of home. Still today, the preparation for this dish is almost unchanged. For certain things, no short cut exists. A long preparation to get all the condiments in line to cook in the tomato sauce, made of course in the traditional way, with the addition of small pieces of eggplant lightly fried in a pan with a few drops of extra virgin olive oil. Sitting down to the table with a plate like this in front of you is a moment when stars collide, and taste begins. Each rigatone noodle is smothered with sauce and braised meat. For me, this dish will always have the smell and taste of home.”